Highlights and memories

We are on ferry to Victoria and have a moment to ponder the past month. Seems much longer since we started out - we managed to pack a lot in. We keep saying we don’t want to do the “If it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium.” kind of holiday. But how do you pass up the chance to see something new and fascinating every day? 

While sitting here, we are thinking over our highlights of the trip. 
Bill’s was our amazing visit with Henry Roy Vickers in his home overlooking the raging Skeena River. Wildlife comes next on his list including our trip to the preserve outside Whitehorse. Then there was the white-knuckled trip on the Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to Chicken (so-named because they couldn’t spell Ptarmigan!) Another moment for Bill was watching a grizzly bear meander over a hillside. None of us could find the bear in the binoculars so it was a treat just for him. He couldn’t get over how relaxed the bear seemed but how quickly he covered territory.I formed new highlights every day - usually involving the natural world - a world of wild flowers and butterflies I thought was gone. The boulder glacier was a strange treat - a chance to see a true alpine garden with miniature plants artfully hidden in safe crevices out of the wind and somewhat protected against the winter. Bears lying in dandelions have completely changed my attitude towards those yellow flowers - if the bears love them that much, they must be good. Memories of our conversation with the people of Ksan, the amazing native heritage site, still brings a smile to my face - such respectful, intelligent and wonderful people. And what we learned! Beringia is now a familiar word in our vocabulary. We followed rivers to their headwaters and were always amazed by their size and beauty. And the boreal forest. Our constant companion. The spruce trees - white and black - much smaller than trees of our forests but resilient in spite of severe growing challenges - the birch, cottonwood and aspen trees - trunks as gorgeous and varied as their leaves were bright and fresh. Will we go back? This trip can’t be duplicated but we loved the Yukon and might return - by plane to Whitehorse to rent a car and travel back to Kluane and maybe return to Tombstone. This time in the fall hoping to see the colours both on the ground and in the sky. In the meantime, we have amazing memories of a unique and special part of the world.

Great last day

We planned two nights in Clearwater in order to spend today driving through Wells Gray Park. It is waterfall heaven there. We had no idea the treats we had in store. We saw three distinctly different and equally dramatic waterfalls (there are more) and took all day driving up to the end of the road and stopping along the way. We also saw three bears and a marten. Great last day together. Tomorrow Bill and I start our trip home while Fay and Ted stay another day in Clearwater relaxing. 

Our first stop was Dawson Falls - BC's answer to Niagara. They are booming falls and we were able to hike along the trail until we came to the top of the falls - a foot away. You could feel the roar. 

Helmeken was next - higher, carving out the canyon out of volcanic rock. 

Lichen

In spite of the raging Robson River we were following, the forest was dry. Must be unusual because lichen lined the pathway. Apparently moose also like lichen but a specific kind. I'm on the lookout for it. The other lichen fact is that different caribou groups like different types of lichen - good thing because there are many different kinds as you travel north.

Clearwater

We're sitting in lawn chairs in our RV park in Clearwater at the foot of Wells Grey Provincial Park. We are staying here two nights and touring the park tomorrow. Expect to see some spectacular waterfalls and do some nice hikes.
We went on a short hike this morning in Mt Robson park starting at the Visitor Centre again. We had been told that very few people see Mt Robson's peak since it is usually in cloud. There it was in the clearest blue sky!

We headed up a trail that followed Robson River. The top of the mountain was in view for a while. Notice the odd snow formations on the ridge - like five snow tents. 

The Robson River is glacier-fed. The glacier grinds the rocks and the resulting silt is called rock flour. It colours the water and in this case is carried all the way to the Fraser delta. 

Incoming

The last entry was written under duress. We found out about internet access after-hours at the visitor’s centre. (One of the staff members told us she always seems to forget to turn off the server.) So after dinner, we all trooped over with iPads and computers in hand and sat on the deck looking up at Mt. Robson. There can’t be many viewpoints more spectacular. 

Only trouble was, the mosquitoes were relentless. It is hard to think when a little flying zinger is on the inside of your glasses looking for a soft landing. I tend not to have issues with them usually - they seem to prefer everyone else more than me but since everyone else had either zipped up hoodies to reveal only two eyes, or left for the truck, they had to give me a try. 

We have bug suits and have all worn our bug hats more than once. There is also a strongly held belief in the use of deet, afterbite, and citronella candles with most members of our group but my limit was reached last night when we had our first encounter with no-see’ums. These single-grain-of-pepper-sized bugs really HURT! You wonder what piece of mini-lightening just struck and look down to see the speck that caused it. Only good thing about those guys is no lasting effects. Different with the mossies - we all sport welts on our hands, faces or ankles from them.  

Don't look at the picture if you hate violence. 

Spring and Mt. Robson

We are staying in Mt Robson Provincial Park so have no internet but we drove down the road and here we sit on the deck of Mt Robson Information Centre looking out at the dramatic mountain as we type. I took this picture five minutes ago. We are on the deck of the information centre and can pick up their internet even though the centre is closed. It is 8:00 pm June 21. I would spend more time but the mosquitoes have won and we are all going to run for cover.

Spring is here in eastern BC and Indian Paintbrushes are everywhere. 

You actually want us to cook this?

Bill and Ted have been fishing when they get a chance - mostly on lakes when we stay in parks. Ted caught five arctic grayling on an early attempt. Fay’s reaction to the proud fisherman holding the fish up to the window of the trailer was “Get that ugly thing out of here!” Once cleaned, the BBQ came out, and we had fish dinner and found them pretty tasty. 

The streams and lakes continued to cry out and Bill and Ted set out again last night. This time Ted came home first with a pike. Bill later caught another pike. Have you ever seen one? Fay and I both looked at the things and wondered how anything that ugly could possibly taste good. 

Dinner was already started so the fish went in the fridge. Three of the four of us spent the next 24 hours thinking about those ugly snake-like fish and by the next day when the subject of supper came out, it tuned out we had come up with some options. Bill said “Either throw an onion in a pot and make pike soup or take it home and put it under Eileen's roses!” Eileen said, “I’m throwing smokies on the BBQ.” Fay said, “I’m having baked beans.” Ted said, “You are all prejudging!” He was right. He later told us we shouldn’t judge by appearances alone. Right again. But no takers. Ted cooked one on the BBQ and ate it. Turns out pike is very boney but, if caught in cold waters, tastes okay (just kind of bland). The second one is going to be responsible for a beautiful rose somewhere in the Prince George region. 

Last post for three days or so...

We are in Tim Horton's in Chetwynd. We supposedly have wifi in the RV park but none of us could get on. We needed a donut anyway!
We spent the morning in Dawson Creek (now know that Mr. Dawson was a Railway official). We toured their museum and all now feel pretty educated about the building of the Alaska Highway. We all agree that we didn't know anything about this amazing accomplishment until we started learning as we travelled it. I think it is one more example of what people can do when motivated. Too bad it was the war - but maybe somehow we can all get motivated for our grandchildren's future?

We are heading to a nearby provincial park campground and driving from there to see the Bennett Dam. Then the next day travelling south stopping halfway to Prince George in another provincial campground (Whiskers Point) for two days - a real treat for us all. But no internet so we'll be sitting in a beautiful setting by a lake, making s'mores, reading books and fishing. How lucky are we?
Here are a few pictures from the last day or so. We've left the mountains for now and are in rolling farmland. We have a chance to watch storms form and drove through one downpour including thunder and lightning. Another similar one happened last night as Bill was madly unhooking the truck. He just made it inside as the lightning started.

The minimum amount of gas bought here -  $1.79 a litre. No snivelling, just loads of tears.

One of the pair of caribou on the highway. They cooperated for photos. 

Dawson Creek - mile zero

We have arrived in Dawson Creek - mile zero of the Alaska Highway. We are now in Peace River country and for the last 100 km of the trip passed beautiful farm land. 
We stopped earlier today in Fort St. John, a city of 20,000 that is a thriving oil/gas town. Refineries, and evidence of gas and oil exploration everywhere. Huge trucks, many with wide loads had been passing us in both directions on the highway. Quite a change from the Yukon when we were often the only two vehicles for miles. We stopped at the tourist information office to make sure we weren't missing anything before we headed to Dawson. The young women recommended the lookout over the Peace River Valley. We were just outside the building when another woman came up behind us and asked if we had toured the facility. Turns out she was the mayor and the building we had come out of houses one of two olympic-sized speed skating rinks (along with two hockey rinks in the same open space). Very impressive!

No pictures for now - we are in RV Park and internet is hit and miss but really doesn't like uploading pictures. Not sure what Chetwynd will bring tomorrow. 

Trailer life, cont'd

So our trailer comes with kitchen table, fridge, oven, freezer, microwave, sink and a bit of a counter. More if you cover the sink. Should work. So we’ve agreed that each trailer is responsible for a full-on meal one night out of three. Not so bad, you say? Well, first you open the fridge door. Once you’ve cleaned up the spilled yogurt container that fell out, you get out what you really need. Then you look on your list that tells you which storage place has the flour, rice, spices. You remove the cushions and board from the bench seat to find the flour, then go through the same routine with the other bench (!) to find the rice. then after putting it all back together, you remember to get out the pot from the first bench seat…. Then you find the rice cooker behind the bins under the sink, then you lay everything out on the table. So far, so good. Open the oven to take out pans you store in them, try to light oven and realize the propane isn’t turned on. Sort that out. Back to kitchen, remove cover from sink to find dirty lunch dishes stored after our quick lunch stop, get them started. Turn on stove and realize the one frying pan you brought is too small for all the salmon cakes you are cooking, jam them in anyway, Find spot for rice cooker on table knowing smoke alarm might go off. Realize table has to be set but is covered with food yet prepared. Cover sink up again for use as cutting board and hope to remember lunch dishes soaking, Remove battery from smoke alarm! Welcome F&T for appies, get out cloth napkins to go with plastic dishes, light candles, and enjoy! 

Will the real Eileen please stand up?

Ok, I’ve restrained myself long enough. I don’t know who is reading this but its time I came clean.I’m not a trailer evangelist.(Bill would say I’m a princess) 

So a while back I tried to have my first shower in the trailer. I don’t actually fit in our shower unless I stand with my head in the fan recess. You try washing your hair that way. But I watch Bill have a shower and come out smiling so I'm game to try. To have a trailer shower you first have to empty the tub of all you’ve put in there for safe-keeping while travelling - garbage can, first aid kit, broom… So, all cleared, water on, I carefully step in and am ambushed by a blast of cold water! Bill’s shower had emptied the hot water tank. So, I pull on clothes, grab all necessities and walk, hair dripping, across the dusty lot to the camp showers. Ready to get in, I reach to turn on shower only to find no on/off, just a temperature control. You guessed it - coin operated. Why didn’t you tell me sooner? Clothes back on, back across dusty parking lot, hair now steaming rather than dripping, pick up loonies, back across parking lot to try again. 

The woman putting up the “washroom closed for cleaning” sign didn’t miss a beat when she saw the look on my face as I approached. She just quickly removed the sign and left the area.

Following the Alaska Highway

Turns out our trip to the Yukon and back has followed two historical routes, both built around an urgent, chaotic rush to a goal. Our route north followed the gold rush - supply routes, telegraph locations or sites of the actual gold. Our return trip is following the Alaska Highway. Started in 1942 three months after the invasion of Pearl Harbour, the highway was slashed through the bush from Dawson Creek to Fairbanks, Alaska in 8 months. Everywhere there are reminders of the massive undertaking: Contact Creek - where the two teams from north and south met, Summit Lake - highest point on the highway (1295 metres), and Suicide Hill - apparently now improved! We stopped for the cinnamon buns we had read about and continued our animal count. Two caribou, one marmot, one moose. We camped in Buckinghorse River Provincial Park for the night - somewhere on the Alaska highway on the way to Fort St. John, back in mosquito territory.

Off-line for a day or so

Tonight we planned to stay in Muncho Lake provincial park. It was full! We have been spoiled this far with no problem arriving at last minute wherever we wanted to stay. In some places there have been only one or two other trailers. But once we left Whitehorse we noticed a definite change in the traffic. We are leaving as the rush begins. So now we need to think more about getting to places early. We hope to stay in Buckinghorse River Provincial Park halfway from Fort Nelson to Fort St. John. We are now in the Rocky Mountains.

ANIMALS!

We have been a bit disappointed with the scarce number of animal sightings until today.... Seems they planned a surprise party for us (or maybe an early Father's Day Gift). Anyway, we saw five black bears, one shy grizzly, fourteen bison, a flock of Stone sheep and, just a minute ago at our camp site, two moose! All but the moose were sightings on the highway from Watson Lake to our current stop somewhere on the Alaska Highway in the foothills of the Rockies.
I will never look at dandelions the same again. Bears love them. Every one of our five separate sightings were black bears in a dandelion patch. Our first bear even took time off to demonstrate his back-scratching technique. He reached behind him and held the top of the small tree while he rubbed back and forth. He then walked over a smaller bush presumably to scratch his belly. They are laid-back guys.

Next attraction is the wood bison. They are resident in this area and are in constant danger living close to the highway (60+ killed a year). They are amazingly huge dark spots you can see far in the distance and they ignore cars completely. We only saw males so assume the females are hidden with calves. The males were in groups of two or four, all munching on vegetation (again with the dandelions!)

The sheep are called Stone Sheep (Stone Mountain is nearby). The young were still wobbly on their feet.  

Alaska to BC to Yukon in one afternoon.

Skagway, a town of 600, continues to be overwhelmed by cruise ship traffic. There were four huge ships docked as our catamaran pulled in. The main street was so crowded you had to maneuver to get past people looking in windows at sale-priced diamonds and northern lights jewels. Most stores are owned by cruise ship companies and offer free whale tale charms for just entering the store. 

The side streets are amazingly quiet - most people don’t venture a block off main. You find a sweet little town hidden in plain sight. We had smoked-salmon chowder in a quieter restaurant half a block off main, spent time in a fabulous little quilt shop (and $$) then slowly meandered our way back to the trailers and headed off for Canada. 

Made our fourth border crossing and travelled from Alaska to B.C. to Yukon in a few hours. The drive follows the White Pass Railroad built for the gold rush and now a tourist attraction. Once again the scenery is different but beautiful. Strange rock formations with sparse trees and amazing blue lakes. 

Back down carefully and don't listen to your wife!

Back to our trip down to Skagway. We drove from Haines Junction in the Yukon to Haines, Alaska. Haines is a charming little town with influences from gold rush (as most other places in Alaska and the Yukon) mixed with those of WW II. Following Pearl Harbour, US urgently started preparations to protect Alaska from invasion. Haines is a deep-water port so was important strategically. A large naval contingent was stationed there but it also was important for supplying materials for the Alaska Highway, built in 8 months!

We arrived two hours early for the morning ferry and had fun watching the casual, hilarious, but strangely competent ferry service in action. A casually-dressed, white-bearded 'guy in charge' told Bill that while he would probably have to back down the ramp, as long as he listened to him and not his wife, he’d be fine! For at least thirty minutes, we watched cars and a few trailers move down the ramp. We couldn't figure out what could possibly be happening in the ship to take so long to board one vehicle after another. Turns out, most people can not maneuver into tight spots let alone back up. Guy in front of us must have taken ten minutes to get his trailer down ramp and into position. We saw him later on board and he still looked dishevelled and shell-shocked from the experience. Bill backed down and in position with no adjustments. The guy said “You can actually do this!”  - makes you wonder about all those big rigs out there on the highways…. 

From Whitehorse back to Teslin

Whitehorse is location of start and finish of Yukon Quest. We met a young woman who has 12 sled dogs and races in amateur races. She told us that the wild, violent dogs of earlier days have been replaced by more trustworthy, smaller but faster dogs. I’m currently reading Jack London’s Call of the Wild and am glad to hear it! 

The picture is of the Whitehorse Dam at sunset.

We met up with F&T in Teslin. We were here on route up but this time were able to tour the Tlinglit Museum (opens June 1) We happened in when they were showing a live-broadcast of a huge gathering of Tlinglit people in Juneau. Teslin is holding the gathering next year and we were invited to return for the four-day celebration in July 2015. They are expecting 4000 people! 

Back in Whitehorse

Not planned, it is time for an oil change for Bill's truck and only a Ford dealer will do it so we left F&T in Carcross (where Caribou cross) as they continued on their journey and we drove 85 km to Whitehorse. We're happy to return. We like it here and will spend tomorrow morning doing more exploring while Bill's truck is serviced. We treated ourselves to a beautiful meal tonight at the Burnt Toast. Reviewed in the NY Times (and lonely planet), I had the fresh arctic char poached in parchment. I practically licked the plate! Bill contemplated the Elk sausage but in the end had some of my fish along with a beautiful beet salad. A real treat.
We are now in Starbucks to get some on-line time.
It is beautiful out - feels like room temperature at 9:00 pm and the sun shows no interest in setting. We spoke to the waiter who has lived here three years. He loves it but is still not looking forward to November. He said it isn't the cold, it's the dark. He said the summers and long days make up for it and you keep busy in the winter and try to get away at least once.

Plant lovers only...

I spend a lot of my time with my nose close to the ground. The flowers are only starting but I've photographed Arctic lupin, Bear Root (or the poisonous northern sweet vetch, hard to know the difference - ask the 1820 arctic expedition members who  died), mountain avens, dandelion (native!), showy Jacob's ladder, wild flax, one prairie crocus and the thrilling find of a patch of lady's slippers.
As we climbed we found a lovely little alpine garden with tiny plants crammed into cracks on a giant rock glacier - no soil to be seen! I've also developed a serious love of lichen - along with the caribou who survive on it. Apparently full of carbohydrates!
Here are a few pics.

Haines, Alaska

We are in Haines, Alaska for tonight. We have reservations on a ferry to take us to Skagway. Bill and I were there on a cruise but this time, we'll drive from Skagway back into Canada. We've crossed the Canadian/American border three times so far - remembered just as we stopped to buy more beer. We won't have been in Alaska 24 hours even though we were in Alaska a few days ago! Good thing we look like tired tourists - the border crossings are pretty easy.

The internet is working here pretty well so I'll try to add some pictures to previous postings.

Frost heaves - that one was a doozie!

Much of the drive from the Alaska border done alongside the Kluane was hair-raising because of frost heaves. We had been warned but never experienced anything like it - a roller coaster ride with a reverberating motion with the truck coming down as the trailer goes up! As least our truck is quiet as we rock and roll. T & F’s motor home means they hear every dish rattle as they swoop up and down. Whoever is second in line (we take turns each day) has the advantage of watching the guinea pig in front. This along with the walkie-talkies helps avoid some of the dips and driving around 60 km means most are tolerable. But occasionally you hit a doozie and it takes a few meters to calm down after. 

The picture might give you a bit of an idea. Taking pictures meant going up and down with the camera in time to catch it - the worst were hidden. When we joined the Alaska Highway again, we were thrilled to see lines painted on it. It meant the ups and downs showed up better. In the meantime, we got to know to take the little red flags on the side of the road seriously!

Kluane National Park

I’ll rely on pictures to describe Kluane National Park. Gorgeous, awesome, amazing, jaw-dropping just can’t contain it. We’ve driven along the boundary of the park with Kluane Mountains on one side and Kluane Lake on the other. We can only stop in rest stops for pictures and rely on our amazing cameras to take good shots of passing scenery while we drive. 

Internet is sloowwwww

No pictures for a while. Dialup only and uploading pictures causes whole network in campground to bog down.
We're off to Kluane! Will be camping in the park for two days so off-line. Once back in B.C. I'll send some pictures. We have thousands!

Top of the World Highway

We set out from Dawson on a beautiful sunny day for a white-knuckled trip on the Top of the World Highway. We had been warned in Whitehorse by a couple who had just been over it not to even consider  trying it. The woman was four inches from my face when she looked me straight in the eye and said “DON'T GO!” three times. Since then, we talked to many people who had gone over it and we were just told that the Canadian side was fine but once you hit the border into Alaska, the road was indeed terrible - under construction - with only  rough road base (see picture!) for 20 km. 

So, we travelled at a average speed of 15 - 20 km but got out without having to use either of our two spares. At the bottom we talked to people in a truck who were adding air to their tire after their second flat and to another couple we had talked to at the top. They had a huge trailer and were about to change a tire that had wrapped around the axle on the way down. They didn’t notice until they stopped at the bottom! 

The four of us agree it had been worth the risk. The road was amazing following the ridge of a number of mountains. We were above the tree line and could see on either side for miles and miles. We crossed the highest border crossing in North America  and had to provide passports and give up New Zealand apples (not Canadian) We stopped on the Canadian side and I had a chance to take closeups of an amazing variety of lichens (main staple of Caribou) and minute alpine flowers. It felt like we should all break out with “The hills are alive…)

Bears

At one stop on the Dempster, Bill spotted a grizzly in the distance and was able to follow the huge lumbering bear as he wandered across the hillside. Tourists are asked to report sightings so Bill left a note on the truck of two wardens we could see walking in the bear’s direction. We figured they knew about the bear and were possibly tracking it but we were surprised to have them catch up to us in their truck and ask Bill to fill out a formal report. They did not know the bear was just above them and were surprised to read Bill’s note!
The picture is of a pair of bears we saw on the highway further south. They disappeared the minute they heard our vehicles approaching. 

Permafrost, tundra and beyond the tree line

Today we drove the Dempster Highway (ends in Inuvik) to travel through the Tombstone Territorial Park. Although we were about two weeks early for spring (snow still lingering in places), we still found the alpine and arctic landscape amazing. Spring will bring flowers and lush green; fall, amazing colours, but today the vistas and subtle colours of the early spring were gorgeous. It was easy to imagine the thousands of caribou racing across the expanses of tundra. The guys managed to fish a couple of the streams and we all marvelled at the sky. 

When does that sun set?

We were told about a back road leading up to a fire lookout and headed up there late in the evening. We talked to the fellow who lives there with his wife during fire season. He climbs the lookout tower every morning at 9:00 and stays there all day searching the horizon. Fire is a constant threat in the Yukon. We’ve passed miles of sites of former forest fires the whole way up. 
We are aware of the later setting sun. It is strangely daylight long after it should be! Sun is setting around 12:45 am these days. 

Diamond Gertie’s, Dredge No 4 and Fun and Games in Dawson City

We have been in Dawson City for three nights but have had no internet. It is up now but still dial-up here so pictures may be impossible. 
Dawson City’s full-on gold rush lasted three years. After that the population plummeted as industrial gold mining took over. It is still happening. The federal government took an interest in the town for tourism in the 60’s and has refurbished some of the buildings. Locals as well as young people from ‘outside’ put on their turn of the century clothes and take us on walk abouts and treat us to entertainment of all sorts. 

A Day in Whitehorse

We headed out in the rain with our to do list in hand and pretty much covered it! Whitehorse is a city spread out along the Alaska highway for miles but the downtown area is compact with mostly two-story buildings. We started at the MacBride Museum for a session about Sam Magee (real, but not cremated in a ship’s hold!). We also watched an expert young woman pan for gold - clearly not as easy as it appears. She doesn’t have her own claim but lots do apparently. 

After lunch we dropped into the Yukon Territory Building and were given a private tour of the legislature. The conversation about government was soon followed by tips about fishing and a strong warning to keep a constant lookout for bears - black and grizzly. They have just woken up and are hungry and growly. Point taken!! 

Bears Paw Quilt shop, Fireweed Books, Old Log Church and Berengia - an amazing facility with life-sized skeletons of Wooly Mammoths, giant beavers and short-faced bears - all found in the region formed during the last ice age, filled the rest of our day. We ended out time in downtown with huge dinners at Klondike Ribs and Salmon BBQ: Alaska halibut and chips, bison steak with wild berry sauce and BBQ ribs! We all rolled home. 

Golfing in Whitehorse

As if this wasn't a busy enough day, the guys headed out for nine holes of golf at the Mountain View Golf Course. Their T off time was at 6:30 but the pro said last T off is at 9:20! GIves you an idea of the lengthening days! Fay and I were happy enough to stay home and get the laundry done, catch up on blogs and read books. Pictures of golf course to follow.

Muskox and healing mineral waters

Our first full day in the Whitehorse region was spent out of town. We headed up the North Klondike Highway to stop for a North Bean latte we'd read about before spending three hours walking 5 kilometres through the Yukon Wildlife Preserve. This huge area has space for bison, caribou, elk, moose, arctic fox, lynx and muskox to roam and breed in huge natural areas. There are newborns in most paddocks including a tiny bison teetering over to his hiding spot in the trees. At the end of our three-hour hike we were thrilled with a closeup look at the monster muskoxen. This amazing animal must have provided the template for Beauty and the Beast and puts bad hair day in perspective. There were four miniature 'beasts' newly born and sitting amongst the enormous adults in the shade.

We continued on the road to the Takhini Hot Springs. Natural hot mineral waters that were a treat after our hike. Before our dip, we stopped for lunch in the attached cafe and found ourselves in Cafe Balsam, a gourmet's treat. Bouillabaisse, sweet and savoury crepes were the specialty. We were passing spoons around for taste sensations. Open year round we then soaked in the pool and heard stories from locals about going dogsledding first then sitting in the pool and watching the Northern Lights. Makes their dark winter sound appealing!