Highlights and memories

We are on ferry to Victoria and have a moment to ponder the past month. Seems much longer since we started out - we managed to pack a lot in. We keep saying we don’t want to do the “If it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium.” kind of holiday. But how do you pass up the chance to see something new and fascinating every day? 

While sitting here, we are thinking over our highlights of the trip. 
Bill’s was our amazing visit with Henry Roy Vickers in his home overlooking the raging Skeena River. Wildlife comes next on his list including our trip to the preserve outside Whitehorse. Then there was the white-knuckled trip on the Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to Chicken (so-named because they couldn’t spell Ptarmigan!) Another moment for Bill was watching a grizzly bear meander over a hillside. None of us could find the bear in the binoculars so it was a treat just for him. He couldn’t get over how relaxed the bear seemed but how quickly he covered territory.I formed new highlights every day - usually involving the natural world - a world of wild flowers and butterflies I thought was gone. The boulder glacier was a strange treat - a chance to see a true alpine garden with miniature plants artfully hidden in safe crevices out of the wind and somewhat protected against the winter. Bears lying in dandelions have completely changed my attitude towards those yellow flowers - if the bears love them that much, they must be good. Memories of our conversation with the people of Ksan, the amazing native heritage site, still brings a smile to my face - such respectful, intelligent and wonderful people. And what we learned! Beringia is now a familiar word in our vocabulary. We followed rivers to their headwaters and were always amazed by their size and beauty. And the boreal forest. Our constant companion. The spruce trees - white and black - much smaller than trees of our forests but resilient in spite of severe growing challenges - the birch, cottonwood and aspen trees - trunks as gorgeous and varied as their leaves were bright and fresh. Will we go back? This trip can’t be duplicated but we loved the Yukon and might return - by plane to Whitehorse to rent a car and travel back to Kluane and maybe return to Tombstone. This time in the fall hoping to see the colours both on the ground and in the sky. In the meantime, we have amazing memories of a unique and special part of the world.

Great last day

We planned two nights in Clearwater in order to spend today driving through Wells Gray Park. It is waterfall heaven there. We had no idea the treats we had in store. We saw three distinctly different and equally dramatic waterfalls (there are more) and took all day driving up to the end of the road and stopping along the way. We also saw three bears and a marten. Great last day together. Tomorrow Bill and I start our trip home while Fay and Ted stay another day in Clearwater relaxing. 

Our first stop was Dawson Falls - BC's answer to Niagara. They are booming falls and we were able to hike along the trail until we came to the top of the falls - a foot away. You could feel the roar. 

Helmeken was next - higher, carving out the canyon out of volcanic rock. 

Lichen

In spite of the raging Robson River we were following, the forest was dry. Must be unusual because lichen lined the pathway. Apparently moose also like lichen but a specific kind. I'm on the lookout for it. The other lichen fact is that different caribou groups like different types of lichen - good thing because there are many different kinds as you travel north.

Clearwater

We're sitting in lawn chairs in our RV park in Clearwater at the foot of Wells Grey Provincial Park. We are staying here two nights and touring the park tomorrow. Expect to see some spectacular waterfalls and do some nice hikes.
We went on a short hike this morning in Mt Robson park starting at the Visitor Centre again. We had been told that very few people see Mt Robson's peak since it is usually in cloud. There it was in the clearest blue sky!

We headed up a trail that followed Robson River. The top of the mountain was in view for a while. Notice the odd snow formations on the ridge - like five snow tents. 

The Robson River is glacier-fed. The glacier grinds the rocks and the resulting silt is called rock flour. It colours the water and in this case is carried all the way to the Fraser delta. 

Incoming

The last entry was written under duress. We found out about internet access after-hours at the visitor’s centre. (One of the staff members told us she always seems to forget to turn off the server.) So after dinner, we all trooped over with iPads and computers in hand and sat on the deck looking up at Mt. Robson. There can’t be many viewpoints more spectacular. 

Only trouble was, the mosquitoes were relentless. It is hard to think when a little flying zinger is on the inside of your glasses looking for a soft landing. I tend not to have issues with them usually - they seem to prefer everyone else more than me but since everyone else had either zipped up hoodies to reveal only two eyes, or left for the truck, they had to give me a try. 

We have bug suits and have all worn our bug hats more than once. There is also a strongly held belief in the use of deet, afterbite, and citronella candles with most members of our group but my limit was reached last night when we had our first encounter with no-see’ums. These single-grain-of-pepper-sized bugs really HURT! You wonder what piece of mini-lightening just struck and look down to see the speck that caused it. Only good thing about those guys is no lasting effects. Different with the mossies - we all sport welts on our hands, faces or ankles from them.  

Don't look at the picture if you hate violence. 

Spring and Mt. Robson

We are staying in Mt Robson Provincial Park so have no internet but we drove down the road and here we sit on the deck of Mt Robson Information Centre looking out at the dramatic mountain as we type. I took this picture five minutes ago. We are on the deck of the information centre and can pick up their internet even though the centre is closed. It is 8:00 pm June 21. I would spend more time but the mosquitoes have won and we are all going to run for cover.

Spring is here in eastern BC and Indian Paintbrushes are everywhere. 

You actually want us to cook this?

Bill and Ted have been fishing when they get a chance - mostly on lakes when we stay in parks. Ted caught five arctic grayling on an early attempt. Fay’s reaction to the proud fisherman holding the fish up to the window of the trailer was “Get that ugly thing out of here!” Once cleaned, the BBQ came out, and we had fish dinner and found them pretty tasty. 

The streams and lakes continued to cry out and Bill and Ted set out again last night. This time Ted came home first with a pike. Bill later caught another pike. Have you ever seen one? Fay and I both looked at the things and wondered how anything that ugly could possibly taste good. 

Dinner was already started so the fish went in the fridge. Three of the four of us spent the next 24 hours thinking about those ugly snake-like fish and by the next day when the subject of supper came out, it tuned out we had come up with some options. Bill said “Either throw an onion in a pot and make pike soup or take it home and put it under Eileen's roses!” Eileen said, “I’m throwing smokies on the BBQ.” Fay said, “I’m having baked beans.” Ted said, “You are all prejudging!” He was right. He later told us we shouldn’t judge by appearances alone. Right again. But no takers. Ted cooked one on the BBQ and ate it. Turns out pike is very boney but, if caught in cold waters, tastes okay (just kind of bland). The second one is going to be responsible for a beautiful rose somewhere in the Prince George region.